The short answer
Do both. Spend one or two nights on the backwaters to see village life from the water, then three to five nights at the beach to rest. If you must choose, pick the backwaters for scenery and the beach for relaxing.
Two different kinds of time
Most people want both, and most people should have both. They do different jobs.
The backwaters are for movement and observation: village life at eye level, best taken in one or two nights rather than three.
The coast is for stopping. Marari for quiet sand, Kovalam for facilities, Varkala for the cliff and the view.
Backwaters and beaches side by side
| Backwaters | Beaches | |
|---|---|---|
| Best for | Scenery, village life, slow travel | Rest, swimming, Ayurveda |
| Main areas | Alleppey, Kumarakom, Kollam | Marari, Kovalam, Varkala |
| Nights we suggest | 1 to 2 | 3 to 5 |
| Best months | All year | October to April |
Getting the backwaters right
A private houseboat gives you a crew, meals cooked on board and a night moored on the water. Main routes near Alleppey can be busy in peak season, so we choose boats and routes with care. If you prefer a fixed bed and a pool, a lakeside hotel in Kumarakom with a day cruise or a canoe trip on small canals gives you the same scenery.
Choosing a beach
Marari
Quiet sand and fishing villages, close to the backwaters. Best for doing very little.
Kovalam
More hotels, clifftop resorts and a long history of Ayurveda. Good for a mix of rest and treatment.
Varkala
Red cliffs above the sea, with cafes and shops along the top. A little livelier in the evening.
Our adviceBetween June and September the sea is rough and not safe for swimming. In the monsoon we suggest more backwater and hill time, and a beach hotel with a good pool.
How we decide with you
Our Kerala office in Cochin has been planning trips for 20 years, and Globe Travel Centre has been trading since 2006. We will ask how you like to spend a day, then suggest the right houseboat or lake hotel and the beach that suits you. It is a simple choice to get right with local knowledge, and an easy one to get wrong from a brochure.
Frequently asked questions
For most people, yes. One night gives you an afternoon, a sunset and a quiet morning on the water.
Marari, which is a short drive from Alleppey.
In the dry season, yes, where lifeguards and flags say it is safe. Avoid swimming in the monsoon.
