The short answer
The Kerala backwaters are a network of lakes, rivers and canals behind the coast, centred on Alleppey (Alappuzha) and Kumarakom on Vembanad Lake. The classic experience is one night on a private houseboat with a cook and crew. Pair it with a night or two in a lakeside hotel.
What are the backwaters?
Behind Kerala's coast lies a maze of waterways lined with palms, paddy fields and villages. People still use them every day, which is what makes a cruise interesting: you pass ferries, schools, churches and laundry on the banks.
Alleppey or Kumarakom?
| Base | Feel | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Alleppey | Most houseboats, busier main channels | Overnight houseboat cruises |
| Kumarakom | Lakeside resorts on Vembanad Lake | Quiet hotel stays, birdlife |
| Kollam | Further south, fewer boats | Combining with Varkala |
What is an overnight houseboat like?
A kettuvallam is a traditional rice barge converted into a floating home, with one to several bedrooms, a deck and a crew who cook Kerala meals on board. Cruises usually board around midday, stop for the night by the bank and finish the next morning.
How to chooseOne night is enough for most people. Choose a smaller boat for a private trip, and ask for a route away from the busiest channels.
Alternatives to an overnight boat
A day cruise, a canoe trip through narrow canals or a stay in a lakeside villa all give you the backwaters without a night on board. The canoe trips go where houseboats cannot.
Our Kerala expert
Based in Cochin
Our Kerala office has been planning trips from Cochin for 20 years. This guide reflects what we tell travellers who call us.
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We choose houseboats and routes ourselves.
Frequently asked questions
One night for most travellers. Add a lakeside hotel night either side if you want more time on the water.
Better boats have air conditioning in the bedrooms, often used at night. Check when booking.
It is held on Punnamada Lake near Alleppey, traditionally in August. Check the confirmed date each year.
